The Main Gate, an absurd monument/lifeguard station overlooking Habushi
After a morning of surfing (and sleeping on the beach for Alex), we headed to the only restaurant within walking distance of Habushi Beach: Habushi Surf Station. The food was not great (we each had a Karage Beef Curry-a Japanese curry with 3 small pieces of fried chicken) but we were so hungry we didn't care.
There we met an older German guy who had been visiting the island for a few days. From him we learned that there was no night ship going back to Tokyo! To stick to our our original plan of returning that same day, we had to catch the 14:50 jet ferry. But we needed reservations for it! We asked one of the ladies working at the restaurant to help us (luckily she spoke some English) and she called the boat company for us. Unfortunately there were no more seats available. We were stuck on Niijima! She did make reservations for us on the next morning slow ferry, so at least we had a way out.
View of the Niijima mountains from the Surf Station
Our money situation was quite desperate as we had not planned for an extended trip. We had just enough cash left for the tickets back! With nothing better to do, we returned to the beach, where I spent the next few hours surfing while Alex socialized with some of the locals.
Without any means of transportation or phone signal to call a cab, we left the beach on foot, ready for the long trek back to the other side of the island where the town is. Luckily, a couple surfers I had met earlier in the water drove by us and picked us up... in a pink Hello Kitty car!
The Hello Kitty van that saved us
We were ready to spend the night sleeping on the beach as it never crossed our minds that we could find an ATM that would accept US cards on Niijima. But we didn't think of the Post Office! The Hello Kitty guys dropped us off right in front of it: now we could afford a room for the night!
The closest accommodation to us was "Tade", where a very nice lady welcomed us. It is not quite a hotel, as the owners live on the premises and their rooms are mingled with the rental rooms. But everything is top quality in a traditional Japanese setting with tatami rooms and futon beds. The owners of the place really go out of their way to make sure their guests enjoy their stay. They even offered to cook us dinner, but we declined as we wanted to explore the town on our own.
We had a good dinner of grilled skid and fried chicken with rice at Torikatsu, where the Niijima pro surfers had gathered to talk about the Tochi Cup, the annual Tokyo surf cup held on the island. After dinner we headed to the only proper bar on the island for a drink. On our way back, to our surprise, we met the lady from Habushi Surf Station, who was walking alone, crying.
When she saw us she cheered up, and when we told her we were staying at Tade she became very happy, as she is good friends with the owners. So we all went back. At the hotel, everyone was gathered in the courtyard, drinking and socializing. As one of the locals offered to drive me to the beach the next morning at 5:00, I could not stay too late, but Alex saved the honor of the family by partying it up!
Partying at Tade with the owners and their friends
Sadly, the next morning the wind was out of control... The break was completely blown out, so I didn't even bother to get in the water. But I promised myself that I would return to Niijima one day for some more surf sessions!
Small island next to the harbor that you can walk to at low tide
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