Return Trip to Niijima

The Island of Niijima stayed in my heart ever since our first trip there over the summer with Alex (Part 1/Part 2). I felt that I didn't spend enough time exploring when I first went there, so I was eager to return and see more of it. So eager in fact that I organized a trip there over Golden Week with Tomo, Miyuki and Nao, a friend I met playing soccer in 乃木坂 (Nogizaka).



Nice barrel at Habushi Beach


When Tomo and I arrived there, the waves at Habushi beach (where they held the last Pro Surf Tour event on the Island in 2003) were big, probably in the 8ft (2.5m) range. Habushi is a really heavy and fast break, so dropping in can be a problem. The wind blowing like crazy just made matters worst that morning. In fact, when I arrived to the beach there were only 3 surfers in the water (later I would find out that most people were surfing another break that was breaking perfectly). I still went in but didn't catch more than 2 waves before I felt my body going stiff from the cold water. I only had a 3/2 wetsuit with short sleeves and I had to wear a rash guard underneath, booties and gloves. Most of the Japanese surfers were wearing 5/3 winter wetsuits.



This crazy guy, though was not wearing anything! He jumped in the water on a board borrowed from some guy on the beach in just a pair of speedos.

In the next few days, the size went down considerably, but it actually made the break more surfable and it got packed! Since it was Golden Week, every serious surfer in Tokyo made the trip down to the Island. Compared to last summer, when there were only maybe 5 or 6 guys in the water all day long, the difference was unbelievable. At times it even looked like a crowded day in Chiba!

All my thanks go to my extremely talented personal photographer, Tomo, for these photos:



Paddle, paddle, paddle...






A late drop-in




Best shot of the day